In 2019 we hired our first camper and went on an adventure. We had a route planned to travel up the east coast and visit a few castles and mountain bike tracks as we slowly made our way west and back down through Glencoe. The weather had other plans (this is Scotland after all!) and so we decided to go west first. We drove up to Torridon which was a stunning and dramatic drive full of breath-taking mountain scenery and quiet Highland villages. Once parked up in our designated campervan spot, we looked at the route home and decided to go home via Skye and explore the Island and all it had to offer. We had been to Skye before but there was something more magical about doing it with the freedom of a camper. On Skye, however, we decided to hop across to Harris and Lewis and see what all the fuss was about.
As the ferry pulls into Tarbert in Harris, one of the first sights you see is the Harris gin distillery. In my opinion, Harris gin is one of the finest Scotland has to offer. Leaving Tarbert and heading towards Luskentyre we were immediately spellbound by the scenery of the hills which were quite literally on fire on that first trip (controlled heather fires)! Then, as you drive further south your eye is periodically caught by glimmers of white sands and turquoise seas. Luskentyre beach is possibly one of the most pristine beaches I have ever been on. I struggle to remember one which comes close. We spent a couple of days near the beach then the boys wanted to mountain bike on the Postman’s Path so I took the opportunity to drive up to Lewis. The drive from Harris is Stornoway is straightforward and pretty enough and Stornoway is a bustling town with a good selection of shops, hotels, restaurants and even a castle but, I would learn on subsequent trips, Lewis’s magic lies on the coastal roads. This first trip was a short one but sparked a fascination and love affair with the outer Hebrides and campervans which is still going strong six years later.
Three months after hiring that campervan, I was lucky enough to own my own and that enabled us to go the Hebrides many more times. Initially, we travelled to Harris and Lewis on a number of occasions (always paying “Harris tax” at the distillery). We discovered the magic and mystery of the Callanais Standing Stones which are believed to be older than Stonehenge and we fell in love with the all the little beaches, coves and art galleries dotted all over the island. My love of all things tweed was strengthened in Harris Tweed which is all woven on the island in the Islanders own homes. Harris Tweed is a global brand but still very much a cottage industry bringing much needed employment to the Islanders.
A visit to the Blackhouse Village is a must as it gives a proper insight into Island life of the past and you can even get to see the traditional weaving of the tweed. It is not unusual to see Crofts on the islands which have the skeletons of black houses, then later white houses, sitting along side modern day homes – giving an insight into the many generations who live on the Islsnd. Lewis suffered throughout the Highland Clearances and many crofters facing starvation and eviction made their way to Canada. Some volunteered. Others were forced onto the boats. The Norse Mill house and Kiln is a delight to visit and the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse is definitely worth the drive.
In 2023, with my new, bigger, van I decided to go further and booked an island hopper ticket to explore more of the Hebrides. From Oban we travelled to Barra up through the sound of Mull and were delighted to watch the dolphins on our journey. Barra was beautiful with more pristine beaches, we had some incredible swims in crystal clear water and walked for miles along beautiful golden sands. We climbed hills and drove down to Eriskay to paddleboard in a gorgeous bay.
A few days passed too quickly and soon we found ourselves heading to South Uist where we had lunch in the famous Politician Bar celebrating the islanders sneaky stashing of whisky which was shipwrecked when the RV Politician sank off the coast (as depicted in the film “Whisky Galore”). Despite the customs officers best attempts, the islanders managed to hide dozens of bottles! One of my favourite days on Uist was spent on a coastal walk. We had breath-taking beaches on one side of us and the delicate beauty of the machair on the other side. It felt almost unreal in its beauty. We drove to the St Kilda viewing point and this was one of the most scenic roads I have ever driven on.
From North Uist we travelled back to Harris and explored some more on my favourite of all the islands. This was a beautiful, relaxing holiday spent exploring beaches, walking and tasting fantastic local seafood and home grown produce.
Did I mention the gin?
Each of the islands have their own distilleries and are producing world class gins and whiskies. Each gin has its own unique flavour and their distilleries all welcome visitors for taster sessions.
If you would like to join us on a Hebridean adventure or would like help to plan your own trip – please get in touch and we will arrange that with you. Be aware though that once is never enough and you will want to return again and again!
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